2026 Price Table: Every Key Type
These are realistic Phoenix-metro market rates, with TrustKey's flat rates shown for benchmark. Every TrustKey price includes the mobile visit, cutting, and programming — there is no separate "service call" or "programming fee" added later.
| Key Type | Mobile Locksmith (AZ market) | Dealership | TrustKey Flat Rate |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic Metal Key Pre-2000s vehicles, no chip |
$75–$150 | $100–$200 | from $140 |
| Transponder Chip Key Chip in the head, must be paired |
$120–$250 | $200–$350 | from $149 |
| Remote Key / Key Fob Buttons: lock, unlock, trunk, panic |
$150–$300 | $250–$450 | from $199 |
| Smart Key (Push-to-Start) Proximity / keyless-go fob |
$250–$450 | $400–$600+ | from $279 |
| All Keys Lost No working key — made from scratch |
$400–$800 | $700–$1,500 + tow | from $349 |
The fastest way to an exact price: text us a photo of your key and your VIN (driver's door jamb or the corner of the windshield) at (623) 200-4499. We reply with a flat, locked quote — usually within minutes.
What Kind of Key Do You Actually Have?
The single biggest factor in price is which of these four technologies is in your pocket. Here's how to tell:
1. Basic metal key (mostly pre-2000)
All metal, no plastic head — or a plastic head with nothing inside. If your car is older than ~1998, you probably have one. It just needs cutting, no electronics. This is the only key type a hardware store might handle — though without on-site service.
2. Transponder chip key (≈1998–2015)
Looks like a normal key with a chunky plastic head. Inside is a transponder chip that answers your car's immobilizer when you turn the ignition. If the chip isn't programmed to your car, the engine cranks but won't start. This is why a $4 hardware-store copy won't start a 2008 Camry — the metal matches, the chip doesn't.
3. Remote key / key fob (≈2005–2018)
A transponder key plus remote buttons — either a "remote head key" (buttons on the key itself) or a separate fob. Two things need programming: the chip (so the engine starts) and the remote (so the buttons work). A proper locksmith programs both in one visit.
4. Smart key / proximity fob (≈2010–today)
No metal blade you turn — the car senses the fob in your pocket, and you push a button to start. These use encrypted rolling codes and have to be cryptographically paired with the vehicle using professional equipment. They're the most expensive to replace ($250–$450 from a locksmith) because the fob hardware itself costs more and programming is more involved.
Dealership vs. Mobile Locksmith
The dealership will get you a working key — eventually, and at a price. Here's the honest comparison:
🏢 Dealership
- No working key? Tow the car in: $75–$150
- Key often ordered by VIN — wait 2–7 days
- Parts and labor billed separately
- Smart key total often $400–$600+
- You're without a car the whole time
🚐 Mobile Locksmith
- Comes to your driveway or parking spot
- Most keys cut + programmed in 20–45 minutes
- One flat, all-in price quoted up front
- Typically 25–35% less than the dealer
- No tow, no rental car, no waiting room
A real-world example from the Phoenix market: a Toyota Camry transponder key runs $120–$180 total from a mobile locksmith — the same key at a dealership runs $250–$350, before any tow. For late-model German cars (BMW, Mercedes, Audi) the dealer is often genuinely the only option — a trustworthy locksmith will tell you that on the phone instead of charging you to find out.
The "All Keys Lost" Premium, Explained
Losing your only key is a fundamentally different job than copying a working one — that's why it costs 2–4× more:
- With a working key, the locksmith duplicates the cuts and pairs a new chip alongside the old one. Quick.
- With no key at all, the locksmith must decode your door lock (or pull the key code by VIN), cut a brand-new key from raw code, and then put the car's immobilizer into programming mode — sometimes with extended security wait timers the manufacturer builds in on purpose.
Nationally, all-keys-lost runs $400–$800 with a mobile specialist, or $700–$1,500 at a dealer including the tow. TrustKey starts at $349; because the exact cost depends on your vehicle, a $59 service call brings our tech out to confirm your price on-site before any work (applied to the job if you go ahead). Full walkthrough: Lost All Your Car Keys in Arizona? Here's Exactly What to Do.
Scam check, automotive edition: the "$19 car key" ad works the same as the "$19 lockout" ad — quoted low on the phone, then "your car has a special immobilizer" at the curb and the price triples. A legitimate automotive locksmith quotes by exact year/make/model or VIN before dispatch, in writing.
4 Ways to Pay Less for a Car Key
- Get the spare before you need it. Duplicating a working key is the cheapest car-key job there is. Waiting until all keys are lost multiplies the cost 2–4×.
- Skip the tow. Every dollar of towing is a dollar wasted — a mobile locksmith makes the key where the car already sits.
- Quote by VIN, not by guess. A company that quotes "we'll see when we get there" can charge anything. A company that quotes by VIN is committing to a number.
TrustKey Automotive Rates at a Glance
| Service | Flat Rate | Includes |
|---|---|---|
| Spare key (basic) | from $140 | Mobile visit + cutting |
| Transponder chip key | from $149 | Key + cutting + programming |
| Remote / key fob | from $199 | Fob + cutting + chip & remote programming |
| Smart key (push-to-start) | from $279 | Proximity fob + pairing |
| All keys lost | from $349 | Decode + cut by code + immobilizer reset |
These are honest starting prices — your exact number is confirmed on-site before any work begins, with a $59 service call applied to the job (it only covers the trip if you decline). Day rates apply 7AM–8PM; after 8PM our standard +$60 After-Hours Priority surcharge applies (disclosed on the phone, never sprung at the car). Serving Chandler, Mesa, Gilbert, Tempe, Scottsdale, and Phoenix, 7 days a week.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a replacement key take?
Most jobs take 20–45 minutes on-site once the technician arrives — including cutting, programming, and testing every button. All-keys-lost jobs on some models take longer because of manufacturer security wait timers.
Do I need to prove the car is mine?
Yes — and you should be suspicious of any locksmith who doesn't ask. Bring your photo ID and the registration or title. It protects you: it means we don't make keys for cars that aren't the caller's.
Can a locksmith make keys for newer vehicles (2020+)?
Usually yes for mainstream makes (Toyota, Honda, Ford, GM, Hyundai/Kia, Nissan, Stellantis) — our equipment is updated continuously. Some very new models and late-model European cars are still dealer-only. We tell you which on the phone, for free.
Will a new key from a locksmith void my warranty?
No. A correctly programmed key — OEM or quality aftermarket — does not affect your vehicle warranty. Programming uses the car's own OBD diagnostic port, the same way the dealer does it.
My fob just stopped working — do I need a new one?
Often not. A dead battery, worn buttons, or a fob that lost its pairing can frequently be fixed for far less than a replacement. We check the cheap causes first and tell you before replacing anything.